eBay is a great place to spend all your savings on vintage denim. Recently I got my hands on this pair of late 90s deadstock Levi’s Vintage Clothing 1955 501XX jeans made at the now closed Valencia Street factory in San Francisco. It’s a worn out cliché, but they (Levi’s) really don’t make jeans like this anymore.

555 indicates Valencia Street.

The denim is really hairy and deep indigo blue dye rubs off rather easily.

Punch through rivet and all.

From what I know the 0498 in the bottom right corner on the tag is the production month and year. I’m doing research on this topic at the moment and for a full article on how to date the production of Levi’s jeans based on the various kinds of care tags I’m drawing on the  experience of specialists such as Levi’s’ own Nils Schéle and the renowned denimhead Paul Trynka.

Roping already before the first soak.

Below is the 1955 next to a turn-of-the-millennium 1947 501xx also from the Valencia Street factory, one could say, “every garment guaranteed to fade beautifully.”

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Thomas Bojer

Founder and editor-in-chief at Denimhunters

Thomas got into denim through a keen interest in manufacturing and a love for the well-faded jean. He's based in Copenhagen, Denmark, but he travels as much as his job allows. Through Denimhunters he has found a way to share his passion with likeminded enthusiasts while learning more about the blue fabric. Thomas' favourite jean is the 1947 501XX and he has a soft spot for Red Wing Shoes.

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In little over a decade, The Quality Mending Co. has gained a reputation as one of the most venerable vintage purveyors of New York. However, what has really caught the attention of denimheads around the globe and made the name stick to the denim community is the ‘Highrider jean’, aslo sold under the Quality Mending Co. name. We had a chat with the man with the ideas, Oliver Harkness, an old time rock ‘n’ roller from Ireland who settled in The Big Apple to sell vintage clothes and design jeans.

One of the first questions that comes into mind is, “how did it all begin?” As you may have read in the article about The Quality Mending Co., Oliver used to only wear vintage Levi’s 505 single stitch jeans, which he bought in bulks back in the days when nobody cared much about them. But around the time when the vintage denim craze really took off the ‘source’ ran out and Oliver gave up wearing jeans. That was until a friend offered him the opportunity to make his own jeans. Oliver pulled the only pair of deadstock Levi’s 505 single stitch jeans he had left out of his archive, and with a few minor alterations based the pattern of the Highrider on it. In Oliver’s own words, “everything about the Highrider is fantastic,” and when you get to know the story of the jean it’s easy to understand why he thinks so.

One of the things you note right away is that Oliver takes the ‘Made in the USA’ badge very seriously, in fact the only part of these jeans that aren’t made in America is the pocket lining. The denim is 14 oz., double ring-spun, and milled by Cone Mills’ White Oak Factory in Greensboro, North Carolina on American Draper x3 fly shuttle loom from the 1940’s. Today, with the Highrider being based on a 60′s fit and cut, those same old looms are once again producing the same denim for the same style of jean after a 50-year hiatus.

When it comes to denim, as Oliver puts it, “Cone Mills has a fantastic reputation for the highest quality denim in the States, but really what can be said about Cone Mills that hasn’t already?” There are plans to use alternative fabrics, also from Cone Mills, in the future, possibly combined with some Japanese herringbone twills, but when it comes to the Highrider denim, Oliver stresses that it always has been and always will from Cone Mills.

The jeans are sewn in a factory in Newark, New Jersey only 8 miles from the NYC store. Oliver spent a lot of time getting the perfect cut and the best material, but what really makes the jean stand alone is the hardward; gorgeous Kentucky manufactured copper rivets and vintage Talon bell zippers, which complement the deadstock selvage pocket lining from 1920s made of Swiss army bed linen. Oliver wants his customers to put on the Highrider to wear it for years, and in his experiences, pockets have always been a weak spot in jean design. This is why he has picked out an super durable material, and he guarantees that you won’t have your cellphone or wallet running down your leg because your pockets rip. To further ensure that the jeans won’t rip or tear they are sewn together with an American made A&E cotton shell with and a polyester core for extra strength.

The ‘rainbow’ chain stitch hemming is done by a Singer chain stitch machine.

The Highrider is up for grabs on the Hickoree’s website (although currently out of stock).

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Thomas Bojer

Founder and editor-in-chief at Denimhunters

Thomas got into denim through a keen interest in manufacturing and a love for the well-faded jean. He's based in Copenhagen, Denmark, but he travels as much as his job allows. Through Denimhunters he has found a way to share his passion with likeminded enthusiasts while learning more about the blue fabric. Thomas' favourite jean is the 1947 501XX and he has a soft spot for Red Wing Shoes.

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Next to the 501, the Lee 101 is one of the most iconic jeans fits. As a tribute to the company’s heritage the ’101′ collection of contemporary fits based on archival classics has strengthened Lee’s position in the commercial premium denim market, and today Lee has clearly stepped out of Levi’s’ shadow and in many ways gotten ahead in terms of coolness. We take a closer look at one particular jean that has helped pave the way for Lee’s newfound attractiveness.

The core product of the 101 collection is the 101 jean, which comes in various fits and fabrics. First introduced in 1924, the 101 evolved over the years and the 101 Slim Rider, which the contemporary 101S is based on, was first marketed in 1941 when Lee brought in rodeo star Turk Greenough and his girlfriend Sally Rand (who was an exotic dancer) to re-tailor the existing fit and make it tighter. Sally Rand used a stapler to make the thighs slimmer, however, kept the hems wide to give room for the boots. Being a contemporary fit, you naturally won’t find any bootcut on the 101S.

This particular pair has been worn by shop owner and denim enthusiast Henrik Brund every day for approximately 18 months. They’ve only touched water a couple of times, and they got their first soak after a solid 8 months of daily wear and tear.

The denim is a 13.75 oz. left hand Japanese Kaihara, which obviously fades extremely well.

Henrik has had the jeans repaired numerous times, especially around the knees.

The 101S keeps evolving and since Henrik picked up his pair (the worn ones) around 2011 the buttons and the rivets have been updated along with other details such as the stitch length and thread thickness, belt loops and leather patch. When Lee 101 was first launched the jeans were sewn in Poland, today production has moved to Turkey.

Contrary to the straight fitted 101Z, the 101S has a button fly and the silhouette is noticeably slimmer.

The back pockets naturally feature Lee’s iconic ‘Lazy S’, which was introduced in 1944.

The Lee 101 collection is sold at various webshops, mainly European, Cultizm in particular has a decent selection.

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Thomas Bojer

Founder and editor-in-chief at Denimhunters

Thomas got into denim through a keen interest in manufacturing and a love for the well-faded jean. He's based in Copenhagen, Denmark, but he travels as much as his job allows. Through Denimhunters he has found a way to share his passion with likeminded enthusiasts while learning more about the blue fabric. Thomas' favourite jean is the 1947 501XX and he has a soft spot for Red Wing Shoes.

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The Levi’s 501 jean is an archetype, the jean that all jeans sprang from. Levi’s Vintage Collection does a fantastic job of producing faithful reproductions of the 501 from the defining moments of its history. From the introduction of belt loops in the 1933 501 to the abandonment of the suspender buttons in 1937, to the painted Arcuate and loss of the cinch on the 1944 to the more modern, recognisable cut of the 1947. Each iteration marks an important step in the development if the 501 and indeed in the history of jeans themselves. The changes reflect the history of the time period, technological changes, fashion, practicality and social status. However, there is one jean in the 501 family that tends to get overlooked and it could be argued that it is the most authentic of all 501s. Namely the humble Red Tab 501 shrink-to-fit jean.

Back in the day, as I am sure we are all aware, all jeans were unwashed, untreated and shrink-to-fit and all jeans were a practical answer to work wear. Above all they needed to be durable and affordable to the working man. Although Levi’s were sold at a premium compared to other brands, workers were willing to pay the extra because they stood up to the everyday abuse of heavy labour.

Nowadays a pair of LVC 501xx will run you in excess of €250, fantastic jeans undoubtedly, made in the USA with fastidious attention to historical details. From the button to the rivets, thread weight and colour, to the denim itself, all aspects are the closest possible to how the jeans would have looked and felt when they were initially produced in which ever epoch your jeans hail from. However, not something most of us would be willing to wear around a building site. The most basic shrink-to-fit however you can find in eBay for under €50 (they are a little more difficult to source in shop in Europe, but I believe the price is comparable in retail stores in the US).

The shrink-to-fit comes in two varieties. The most basic being the non-selvage, 12.5 oz. denim and the slightly more ‘authentic’ but still affordable red line selvage 15 oz. denim. The former appears to be produced in Colombia and Mexico and the latter is produced in Turkey. Both are untreated and unwashed. The denim for the more basic version is presumably locally produced on larger commercial looms, however the 15 oz. selvage denim is sourced in Japan.

It is the red line selvage that is shown in this particular article. They have been shrunk but did not come close to the 10% shrinkage you are told to expect from the flasher – actually they only shrunk 0.5 inch in the inseam. The loss if indigo was minimal.

The fabric itself is soft and supple after a week or so of wear. The more industrial dying processes means that the dye is more deeply ingrained into the yarn so the fading takes time and is more subtle, however it is possible to find examples online of really nicely faded shrink-to-fit 501s. This particular pair has seen about 4 month’s continuous wear including a month long trip around Colombia. After the South American adventure they needed a wash which was done in a bath tub and no more shrinkage occurred nor any loss of indigo.

So why you ask is this the most authentic of the 501s? It is simple. It is the jean that still provides the solution to the problems that saw the creation of blue jean in the first place. It is the jean that is suitable for everyone, affordable to everyone and durable enough for (mostly) everyone.

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Matt Wilson

A Scotsman living in Berlin, Matt Wilson works as a Digital Artist at a production company. He got into denim by chance when he came across an Evisu denim jacket at the local TK Maxx outlet. The texture and the deep indigo colour set it apart from all the junk, and soon Matt was sucked in by the denim community. He doesn’t collect anything, but favours archetype products; designs that have stood the test of time and have remained essentially unchanged since their inception.

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A good pair of jeans is the most versatile piece of clothing one can have. Jeans are an indispensable part of men’s wardrobe prized for their immense durability – a good pair of jeans stay with you for years. Unlike popular belief finding the right pair of jeans for men is more than just determining the size. It takes much deliberation because jeans inherently are made for rough and prolonged use and when buying a pair of jeans the long term application of wearing it should be considered. In order to achieve a truly flattering look while retaining the pair’s functions, you will have to put some thought into selecting the perfect pair of jeans. Featuring several practical ‘getting-started’ tips, this basic buyer’s guide will empower you to make informed choices when you’re looking for jeans.

The search for the right pair of jeans should be kept as simple as possible and when not sure stick to the basic forms and types of jeans. Another thing that has to be kept in mind is the need of getting the fit right and finding the best fit is job half done.

The Perfect Jeans

First, let’s define what a perfect pair of jeans should be like. To put it in simple words, the perfect pair of jeans is one that you can wear with confidence. If you can pull the look off, the pair is right for you. That said, there are a few factors to consider when buying a pair. Fit, colour, style, wash and other elements must suit you perfectly. By combining the right elements, it is very easy to spot the perfect pair of jeans that matches your style nicely.

Choose a Style

The market is filled with different styles of jeans to choose from. What you need to focus on is one that works for you. Classic jeans offer a roomier, more comfortable fit. It falls nicely on your waist and it works best with t-shirts and casual tops. Boot cut, on the other hand, features a more flattering silhouette. This type of jeans sits low on your waist and has a boot-cut leg opening.

A popular variation of classic jeans is known as straight cut. It is straight through the leg and has a straight leg opening, but the pair falls slightly lower on your waist for a cooler look. Skinny jeans, on the other hand, offer a more stylish look in general. Pair this style with a nice combination of colours and textures and you may just surprise yourself. The style also features either a slim or tapered leg opening for a sleeker look.

A Pair That Fits

Choosing the right style is just the first step towards finding your perfect pair of jeans. Next, you need to find a pair that fits you perfectly. The key is to find a balance between comfort and a flattering silhouette. Look for the pair that suits your body type. Avoid jeans that are too tight around the waist, leg and crotch areas. There is no way you can look stylish and stay comfortable wearing the pair if the tight grip of the jeans you are wearing distracts you all day. Keep in mind that jeans will also stretch and shrink depending on how you handle them. Give the pair a room to breathe; it will match the shape of your body as it gets older as long as you treat it properly.

Washes & Colours

Choosing the right wash and colour can be tricky and easy at the same time. A lot of custom denim designers – and the majority of us denim lovers – love dry (raw) denim. Dry denim offers a fascinatingly natural wash as you wear it over time. This means your pair will look natural and unique depending on how you wear it. Factory-distressed denim, on the other hand, offers a look of an aged pair of jeans right out of the box. For those who are looking for a pair of jeans for practical reasons, factory-distressed denim is the way to go. You don’t have to worry about shrinkage and you can enjoy that soft, slightly soothing texture of the washed jeans right away.

In terms of colours, stick to timeless classics if you want to keep the pair for years to come. Original or slightly faded blue jeans and dark denims are indeed timeless and will work with virtually every look you are aiming for. Naturally, we don’t always buy pairs of jeans for practical reasons. This is also part of the reasons why I love to experiment with colours and textures, particularly when I’m buying a new pair of skinny or drop crotch skinny jeans. Colours such as ivy green, khaki and the more universal grey – or even silver and glass – work just as good as the conventional blue and light blue.

Back To the Perfect Jeans

Now that you know some of the most important aspects to consider when searching for the perfect pair of jeans, it is time to complete the circle and return to our original rule of thumb: the perfect pair is one that you can wear confidently.

Denim has always been a fabric that is pleasant to work with. You don’t have to stay on the safe side at all times when buying a pair of jeans; go crazy every now and then and discover new styles and looks that work for you. For those who are looking for a pair that will stay stylish forever, the practical tips above will help you find great, timeless pieces that work immensely well with your shirts and jackets.

The author of this article, Marketing Specialist of TdfFashion.co.uk, Dave Barry is a follower of latest fashion trends and a keen denim enthusiast. He has been fascinated by them since he was a kid and is eager to discover new places to find the best pair of jeans. Gap 1969 Skinny Fit Dark Star is his favourite possession.

Although indigo is still king it seems black is the new black amongst denim enthusiasts. Say hello to Jakob Slim! A black selvage jean made from our Norwegian friends at Livid Jeans. Besides a great fit and the storytelling behind the Livid brand, what’s interesting about this jeans is the fabric, which has a deeper and more solid black colour compared to other black denims. What’s even more interesting is that it fades beautifully, not something that is common for black denim in general, which often tends to be just plain faded into the grey scale.

Crafted on non-automated machinery by a small family-owned factory in Portugal, the black Jakob Slim is made from a beautiful 14 oz. sulphur dyed selvage denim from Kurabo mills in Japan. The denim is a 3×1 twill weave with both the warp and weft dyed black. It features metal donut buttons and rivets, reinforced front pocket openings and all pockets lined with canvas for more durability. The jean is stitched with a black poly core cotton thread and features the ‘Livid’ back pocket embroidery as well as the waxed cow hide leather patch.

The Jakob Slim black selvage should basically just be treated as any other dry denim; wear it, tear it, repair it, and wash it whenever you need to. Production is limited to 200 pairs, so be sure to get yours while they’re in stock.

Visit www.lividjeans.com for more info on stockists and shipping.

Sweden’s Indigofera is one of those brands that will probably never reach the mainstream; founders Mats Andersson and Johan Söderlund are simply not interested in making the short cuts it takes to move it up to the big league. And don’t get us wrong, this is exactly what we love about the brand. In our book, Indigofera stands for dedication and commitment to make the best, no bull shit jeans for die hard denim enthusiasts. Thomas Bojer caught up with Mats Andersson to discuss the loom state Japanese Shrink-to-Prima-Fit denim and the ideas that went into it.

So, you and Johan design and develop all fabrics and denims yourself.  Could you tell our readers a little about the process of developing a denim? 
In the case of our Shrink-to-Prima-Fit we worked with one of our Japanese mills that also produced the 100% natural indigo 16 oz. denim we did back in 2009. We wanted the character of 100% natural indigo in a fabric that could be slightly more accessible in terms of price point. Still, the rope dye gives it a slight unevenness in colour and the white core of the indigo dyed ring-spun yarn comes out rather irregularly. The aging process is fantastic and the blue and white shimmer after the first hand wash.

Before and after a 2-hour soak. The jeans shrink up to 10% in length and 5% in waist. This is the regular ‘Clint’ fit.

Did you have any concerns about going into the shrink-to-fit market?
It is a real challenge to market a fabric like this. It’s only for the daring denim lovers. Maybe like a single malt with smokey character. It takes time and guts to appreciate it, but it gives you a more personalised fit in my opinion.

As with all Indigofera jeans, the Clint Shrink-to-Prima-Fit is sewn with cotton/polyester thread and has a chromed cow leather patch.

What are you most proud of with this denim?
I’m proud to have retailers supporting us by buying this fabric to show their customers what jeans can be about. Just getting it on the market is a big thing for us. The average denim customer would never buy it, it takes time, knowledge, guts and love for denim making to appreciate it.

I know you’ve been asked more than once before, but why is it that you don’t chain stitched the hems of your jeans? 
We think the chain stitch adds beautiful character to a jean, and it’s a faster way hem compared to lock stitching, but we do not think it is the best way of sewing. If the thread breaks the chain unravels. This is one of the reason factories stopped using it.

The roping effect is an irregularity that I think looks beautiful, but it is really just a thing that couldn’t be controlled in production back in the days. As you have thread going in from one side the underlaying fabric is pulled along, which is what creates the tension and in the end roping effect. Potentially you could have the effect on a lock stitch if you don’t feed the fabric.

The Clint Shrink-to-Prima-Fit is available from selected Indigofera stockists including Pancho and Lefty.

We like to keep our readers up to date with any exciting news and the latest releases from the brands we know and have come to have a great deal of respect for. This week we are particularly excited to share with you the latest release from Railcar Fine Goods, the Spikes X014.

The reason we are excited is simply the sheer amount of detail that go into this particular pair. A 13.75 oz. indigo red line selvage (designated X014 by Railcar) from Cone Mills is used with the signature Spikes cut. A clean, contemporary silhouette, straight perhaps verging on slim with a medium to low rise.

And now down to the fine details:

• Construction: Triple stitched, hidden rivet construction.
• Double waist band construction which helps reduce the waistband over stretching
• Continuous waistband chain stitching that is tucked into the waistband to prevent unravelling
• Triple stitched seat seams
• Triple stitched belt loops that are tucked under the waistband
• Hidden rivets on the back pockets
• Back pocket sew off style stitching
• Back pocket and coin pocket interior lining
• Traditional burr riveting
• Railcar branded buttons

The jeans are completely cut and sewn at the Railcar Workshop in Arcadia, California on vintage machines.

So, you get a lot with these jeans, no doubt, but the truly great and indeed surprising thing is the price. At $228 they represent phenomenal value for money. Features such as we see in the X014 are normally reserved for the $300 and above denims. It goes to show that Railcar are truly dedicated to their aim of “building” clothing using the best methods, best materials and for a very fair price.

In Europe Railcar Fine Goods products are available through Rivet and Hide and at Tenue de Nîmes. You can also check out the Railcar website to see all of their items and through their Facebook page keep up to date with events and happenings

Even with the mainstream popularity of raw denim over the last few years, women’s raw denim is still somewhat uncommon in comparison to men’s. Maybe its because of the break in process, or the common lack of stretch, but the women’s raw denim market is still somewhat small, but growing. Companies like Tellason, imogene + willie, and Baldwin are churning out some great women’s denim that will age very well. Take these along with brands Samurai and Railcar Fine Goods and our other halves have an all star set of choices to choose from to make their own imprint in the denim culture. This is Denimhunters’ list to women’s raw denim.

Tellason Bird Straight

The great American jean makers Tellason have just released a new fit, the Bird Straight, specifically for women. The fit is a mid-rise straight leg with a slight taper. Constructed out of the 12.5 oz. non-stretch Cone Mills selvedge denim, the Bird is a great place for women to start with denim.

Retail for $220 at Tellason.com.

imogene + willie

Carrie Eddmenson, one half of the couple behind imogene + willie, said she wanted to make the perfect fitting pair of jeans. This included women’s denim. imogene + willie has six women’s fits and all but one of these fits is available in a rigid, raw denim. The jeans are made right in Nashville, TN in a restored gas station so the jeans are built to take a beating.

Retail for $225 at shop.imogeneandwillie.com.

Railcar Fine Goods

Railcar Fine Goods was started by a passenger train mechanic, Steven Dang, so the attention to detail and quality if the pants is expected. They offer two women’s fits, a slim skinny fit with a medium rise and a slim skinny fit with a high waist, named the Viper (the right photo) and the Donna (the left photo) respectively. Both of these fits are offered in a raw, selvedge denim from Cone Mills ranging from 10.75 oz. to 13.5 oz. There is also a stretch selvedge denim offered as well.

Retail ranging from $168 to $198 at railcarfinegoods.com.

Samurai

The world renowned denim craftsmen at Samurai also offer a women’s raw selvedge denim. This denim comes in at a heavier 16 oz. Japanese selvedge. Offered in both a boot cut and slim cut, made in Japan, and dyed with pure indigo makes this the perfect pair for a enthusiastic raw denim loving lady. The Samurai Geisha is an exceptional pair for the denim savvy women out there.

Retail for $315 at blueingreensoho.com.

Baldwin

Named one of the Best New Menswear Designers of the year by GQ, Matt Baldwin has been making waves. His signature minimal denim design is not devoted to just men, but also women. Baldwin offers two fits, the EJ, a classic straight leg with a medium rise, and the Ten, a skinny fit with a medium-low rise. Both these fits available in a raw, selvedge denim. The simplicity of the pant makes these great choices for a more fashion forward, minimal look.

Retail for $220 at baldwindenim.com.

Raleigh Denim

North Carolina is home to the famous Cone Mills Whit Oak Plant, but it is also home to the last pair of women’s denim on the list; Raleigh Denim. The Haywood Raw is Raleigh’s take on a women’s raw denim. This non-selvedge 11.5 oz. pant comes in a high rise skinny fit featuring all the details of five pocket jean. The denim also contains 2% stretch to make them more comfortable and fitting. Every pair of jeans Raleigh makes is limited, hand signed and numbered, and the Haywood is not different. A limited, Cone Mill stretch raw jean made for a comfortable fit and extended wear.

Retail for $225 at needsupply.com.

Back in June, Lennaert Nijgh from Benzak Denim Developers announced, via a Crowd Funding Production from Indiegogo, that he would be needing the help from denim lovers to fund his new collection. He has now achieved his target and, after a few months of production, it has finally arrived. For the lucky few, you could order a special edition from the Indiegogo x BDD webpage. Principal Contributing Photographer of Denimhunters, Michael van Hal did so. A week ago he received the jeans; this is his review.

This particular pair is the BDD-710 fit with a regular top block and tapered legs made of 14.7 oz. unwashed and sanforized selvage denim woven from Zimbabwe cotton dyed with a green cast indigo blue. The fabric has been reproduced from a deadstock fabric.

Other features of the BDD-710 denim include:

• ‘Big 3 inspired’ coin pocket
• Asymmetrical back pockets
• 3 different yarn colours in two thicknesses
• 2 types of stitch lengths
• Bull’s horns back pocket stitching
• Reversed debossed leather patch
• Beltloops stitched under waistband
• Clean lap seam at the inseams
• Union Special 43200G chain stitched hems
• All made in Okayama, Japan.

The 4-button fly closure features, for this Indiegogo edition, a silver button.

Another great feature of BDD denim is the sixth watch pocket. Today we carry a lot more around in our pockets, so Lennaert came up with the use of a sixth pocket. Now you can keep your hands clear and now both sides of the front pockets will also get that great fading with wearing them.

Back pockets have hidden rivets for extra strength and durability.

It is not only just the outside that looks great. Even the inside of the denim has some great features and details. On the waistband you can see the several tags that Benzak has made, the rivets that are used for the buttons have a BDD-signature, the pockets are made from chambray fabrics and even the back pockets have a chambray lining.

The leatherpatch has, contrary to what you mostly see, a reversed debossed vegetable tanned leather patch.

Lennaert Nijgh wearing the BDD-710 fit.

All in all is this pair of denim from Benzak worth every cent. The construction and denim quality is really high and the details are original and well-placed.

You can now order this pair, or any other items from BDD, online on his website. You can also read or reread the interview we did with Lennaert a while back, click here.

Photography: Michael van Hal

We are seeing an ever increasing number of black denim on the market. Not just from some of the big players looking to expand their product offerings but also from the smaller artisanal brands as well. Black denim, rather fairly, got a bad rep for a long time. As well as the over associations with Metallica, it would not hold its colour and after a time it would become a sludgy grey. Dying black differs in the dying process from indigo, it is an entirely chemical dye that penetrates right to the core of the cotton so the fading possibilities for black denim was rather limited. You had whiskers, honeycombs and stacks yes, but not in the high contrast you found with indigo. However things are changing. We will look at three black denims that will provide you with the full gamut of black denim.

Railcar Fine Goods
First up is the Railcar “over-dyed black over indigo over slub”, a mouthful we know but necessary to describe the denim. To put it in simpler terms, a slubby cotton was first dyed with indigo and then woven into denim fabric. It was then dyed black in a process known as over-dying. The indigo creates a slight barrier for the black dye preventing it from penetrating right to the core of the cotton yarn used in the weft threads, whereas the warp threads will be fully dyed black. This allows the fading process to fully take advantage of all the hues possible, from the black, through indigo blue to the white. Really interesting fabric both woven and dyed by Kurabo in Japan on wide looms.

The denim was originally intended to be used for their first jacket release, however due to popular demand they decided to do a run of jeans as well. Since neither the jackets or the jeans have hit the stores yet there are no examples of time worn fades, to give an idea of the possibilities, Steven from Railcar got out his sand paper and did a little time travel. I am sure you agree that fading these naturally will give some fascinating and impressive results.

Retails for $228 at railcarfinegoods.com.

3sixteen
Next up is a denim that is not strictly black but is so interesting in its construction that we feel it is important to included it here, 3sixteen’s Shadow Selvedge. Although 3sixteen do a fully black denim we think this construction and fading possibilities of the Shadow Selvedge warrant a mention in this article. If you have seen this denim in person you will know the feeling of not being entirely sure about what you’re actually looking at.

From a distance it looks black, coming closer it looks deep blue, hold it up to the light it may look a deep shade of purple. The reason for this is the way in which the denim is woven. Developed exclusively for 3sixteen by Kuroki Mills in Okayama is has a indigo warp thread and an black, sulphur dyed weft thread. Combined they give a really unique look to the denim and also unique fading possibilities.

Retail for $240 at 3sixteen.com.

Eat Dust
Last up we have the very black Eat Dust Bloodline denim. There are three pieces in the range, a pair of jeans, a vest and a jacket, all constructed from the same back selvage denim, the Bloodline is almost a premium range within an already fantastic brand. The fabric and construction is incredible and the detailing down to the individually stamped back plates for the buttons is superb. I have personal experience with this denim in the form to the vest. This denim holds its colour!

The Bloodline is just as black as the day I bought it and there is no evidence of fade lines or wear of any kind. The deep black comes from both the warp and the weft being black sulphur dyed and then woven into the denim fabric with a traditional white/red selvedge edge. There was no bleed in the first weeks of wear and it has not seen any reduction of tone from considerable wear. Like everything from Eat Dust, it holds.

Vest retails for €215 on Eat Dust’s webshop.

So there you have it, whatever you are looking for from your black denim you can find it. Fast colour, fast fading or unique fades. We have covered just some of the many examples out there, we should also mention Iron Hearts Superblack for super heavy black denim as well as Naked and Famous also have all their fits in a black selvedge offering.

Images from Railcar Fine Goods, 3sixteen and Matt Wilson.

As the cold weather of fall sets in, we find ourselves grabbing for a nice pair of denims to beat the chill. This season, it may be good to stray away from the normal indigo denim and into another territory, grey denim. While there is nothing more beautiful than a pair of faded indigo denims, a pair of grey denim jeans can help break the monotony of it’s indigo counterparts and add a new twist to an old favourite. Below are six pairs of grey selvedge jeans which are sure to freshen up your denim rotation.

Rogue Territory
Rogue Territory is known for their variety of choices in fit and fabric. This includes a beautiful 10 oz. grey caste split selvedge denim offered in two fits; the RK Trouser, a chino styled slim straight fit, and the Stanton, a classic slim straight 5-pocket fit. While 10 oz. is a low weight, these will still be a great year round pair of denims, especially in warmer climates. The split selvedge is a relatively unseen detail that complements this trouser well. This pair is also on sale right now, so they might not last long.

Retail for $146 (on sale) at rogueterritory.com.

Naked And Famous
Brandon Svarc’s denim line, Naked & Famous has done everything from scratch-n-sniff denim to 32 oz. super heavyweight denim, so it’s no surprise that they also have created a few pairs of grey selvedge denims. The first pair is a 10 oz. lightweight selvedge offered in their “Regular Guy” fit, a standard relaxed straight fit. If 10 oz. is too light, they also have a 13 oz. version of the grey selvedge denim in their “Weird Guy” fit, a slim and tapered cut. Lastly, they offer something very innovative (and somewhat gimmicky), the Arctic Selvedge, which is made by using a heather grey warp yarn woven with a charcoal melange weft yarn. The resulting fabric is a 13 oz. denim that appears as if it is textured fleece material.

Retail ranging from $135 to $176 at tateandyoko.com.

Unbranded
Another one of Brandon Svarc’s creations, the Unbranded brand offers a high quality denim at a low price. A 13.5 oz. grey Japanese selvedge denim is offered in all three fits, the Skinny, Straight, and Taper. Being one of the most inexpensive pairs on the market, the Unbranded grey selvedge may be a good choice if you still aren’t sure about non-indigo denim.

Retail for $82 at theunbrandedbrand.com.

Gustin
Gustin is the product of Josh Gustin and Stephen Powell. They have cut out inventory and only make what they need to cut costs and offer a high quality product at an affordable price point. They are always offering different fabrics, some of which have been grey selvedge denim. At this point there is no grey selvedge being produced, however this is always changing so it is worth keeping an eye out.

Retail for ~ $80-99 at weargustin.com.

Iron Heart
Not exactly a straight grey denim, Iron Heart offers a black fade-to-grey denim. The 21 oz. Japanese denim starts out black and will fade to grey with wear. With Iron Heart’s trusted quality and signature heavy weight, this pair is sure to last quite some time. The jeans do not have an outer seam selvedge, an interesting detail not featured on many jeans that use selvedge denim. Iron Heart’s heavyweight denim will make a perfect cold climate denim that will wear down to a beautiful grey with time.

Retail for $400 at selfedge.com.

Momotaro X Blue Owl Workshop
Another pair that isn’t exactly straight grey, but worth a look. Momotaro teamed up with Blue Owl Workshop out of Seattle to produce a very comfortable pair of jeans. The warp threads are 100% Zimbabwean cotton while the weft treads are 100% silk. Pure indigo dye is used to create dark indigo warp threads while the silk weft threads show through to bring a grey hue to the jeans. Weighing in at 13 oz., these midweights will grow increasingly more comfortable with every wear.

Retail for $325 at blueowl.us.

Do you also find that it’s difficult to find that perfect 1950s-fitted jean? Well, join the club. Luckily, Dawson Denim just launched a jean that’s shaped like the jeans of the late 1950s and the early 1960s. Like the aprons and bags they make, the jean is made of raw selvedge denim.

Each jean is manufactured in Dawson Denim’s workshop in Brighton in the UK. They use vintage sewing machines like Union Specials and a Reece 101, which makes each garment charming and slightly different to the next.

The regular fitted jeans is made from 14.25 oz. Japanese redlined selvedge denim woven on man operated Toyoda looms; they only make around 100 metres a day. Strong, reliable hardware embodies the aesthetic of the jean. The list of details include:

• Stone thread correct from the late 1950′s denim makers
• Pockets made of British deadstock heavyweight cotton twill from WW2
• British chrome leather patch branded by hand
• Die cast heavy waistband button
• Two prong nail fly buttons – a style was first patented around the 1870s
• Copper branded washer and nail rivets
• Hidden back pocket rivets
• Poly/cotton core spun threads specially developed in Germany
• 1959 43200G Union Special hemming job

Co-founder Kelly Dawson was so gracious to give us some background on the development of their jean:

“It was always the goal to make a jean,” Kelly explains. “We started with the aprons and we planned for that to lead onto other pieces. Also we wanted the ideal fit there wasn’t really anything on the market.” Kelly and her partner in life and business, Scott Ogden have very specific requirements in terms of fit, styling, attention to detail. The fact that they make everything in the UK themselves was the most important aspect.

A question that often comes to mind when you here about yet another newly introduced jean is what sets it apart from the rest.

For the Dawson Denim jean Kelly highlights the fact that they are handmade on vintage sewing machines. This gives the jeans an appearance that computer guided sewing machines cannot reproduce. She also mentions the the Durability Guarantee which comes in the form of a log book inspired by Scott’s granddad’s driving license from 1930. This guarantee gives the owner free repair service.

Denim enthusiasts often want to know specifically how the denim was made.

The denim used for the Dawson Denim jean is dipped twice (16 times). This gives it a deep indigo colour and a slightly red cast. The cotton blend is a mix of US and Japanese cotton. This gives slubs around 2 inches long and very compact. The fabric is pre-shrunk so buy the jeans to fit and don’t worry about that first wash.

Dawson Denim was launched in 2012, but the owner have been working with denim for the past 16 years. So far, Dawson Denim has mainly made a name of themselves making aprons. This almost extinct accessory was once used when men and women dressed for work in a shirt and tie.

To learn more about how Kelly and Scott make these gorgeous products, have a look at this video made by Stylesight.

Denimhunters has been told the jeans will be available at the beginning of December at selected stockists (including Rivet and Hide) from around that time. For more info visit dawsondenim.com.

Denimheads around the globe often refer to the archetypal Levi’s 1947 501 silhouette – one of the most celebrated and replicated 5-pocket jeans - as their favourite fit. Oliver Harkness also has a crush on it.

Harkness is an Irish expat living in NYC where he runs one of the city’s best vintage shops, The Quality Mending Co. Lately, QMC have been churning out some very fine products to compliment their vintage goods.

QMCs venture into jeans making started with the Highrider. The motive: Harkness’ stock of his favourite vintage Levi’s 505 single stitch ran out. So, his love for Levi’s and all things vintage isn’t much of a secret.

Therefore, it wasn’t much of a surprise when Harkness decided to pay a homage to the 501 in one of its most celebrated forms. Denimhunters got a chance to review a pair.

The Real McCoy

The style is called ‘Norman Selby’ after a great American bare-knuckle boxer who fought under the name ”Kid” McCoy. Selby is thought to have introduced the phrase ”The Real McCoy” in the US. Using his name, QMC insinuates that these jeans are in fact the Real McCoy.

If you look a little more into the history of Norman Selby, you might be surprised that QMC decided to use the name.

Selby led a rather tragic yet fascinating life. He struggled with addiction, was convicted for manslaughter, was married a whopping 10 times, before he ultimately committing suicide. His life would certainly be fit for a television portrayal in the vein of ”The Life Aquatic with Steve Zissou”.

On the other hand Selby’s life wasn’t all downturns.

His characteristic boxing style has put him among the best boxers of all time, and in his heyday he performed in movies during the birth of the Hollywood movie industry.

The Lowdown

Fit: There’s nothing revolutionary about the fit of the Norman Selby jean. As mentioned above, the fit is clearly inspired by the Levi’s 1947 501. This means a mid rise and slim to straight leg with a slight taper. All in all a very classic fit that will most definitely go well with a lot of people.

Construction: The jeans are made in the US, which isn’t by no means synonomous with quality. However, it seems to be the general perception nowadays, but in this case it does. But that’s a side note.

The seams are all very straight and points of stress have been bartacked. Even the end of the “rainbow” coloured chain stitched hem has been bartacked to keep it from unravelling. The waistband has been reinforced with a stout 10 oz. twill, which has also been used for the pocket bags.

The fabric is a sanforized 14 oz. Cone Mills denim. It’s on the heavier side of what Cone generally produces, but it’s very typical Cone mills denim in terms of character; which is rather subtle. This denim probably won’t give you any exaggerated wear patterns – undoubtedly the intention of a denim purist like Harkness.

The Deets

QMC have decided to stick to many of the same details that made the Highrider a great pair of jeans.

First of all, they don’t carry any kind of external branding. This means no patch, tag, nor arcuates. It’s a very minimal design, but never boring and uninteresting.

Secondly, the US-made hardware copper rivets, copper laurel leaf donut button, and the Talon 42 brass zipper screams quality.

Another appreciated detail by this denimhunter is the ink-stamped information on the inside of the jeans. It will probably fade with wear and wash, and basically it’s great not seeing the otherwise mandatory nylon wash tag on the inside.

Finally, one of the best details is the offset belt loop, which is a detail you mostly see on jeans from the 1950s.

The Final Verdict

It must be said that there isn’t much about these jeans that could make a modern hardcore denim connoisseur wet himself. There’s simply a lack of details like hidden rivets, a proper leather patch, and possibly heavyweight slubby or neppy denim.

With that being said, the jeans would definitely appeal to a lot of people and would make a perfect introduction jean – if there’s still someone who haven’t purchased a pair of raw selvage jeans. Hopefully more people will be tempted to try out these instead of a pair of A.P.C. New Standards as their intro-jeans.

The fact that the Norman Selby might lack certain details that enthusiasts demand may even be one of the things that the more commercial customer will require – the jeans simply become less customy and much more wearable.

They’re priced just around the $230-mark, which seems to be the average price for a pair of quality jeans nowadays. This is a price point that could make the Norman Selby a pair of go-to jeans for a lot of guys; they have sufficient quality, detail, and charm to make them a wardrobe staple.

We, at Denimhunters, hereby sentence you to support Quality Mending Co. Get your Norman Selbys from QMCs webshop.

Photography: Bjørn Drøgemüller.

The post Sentencing the Great Norman Selby: New Jean From Quality Mending Co. appeared first on Denimhunters.

Most of us Denimhuters oddly prefer the colder months.

The summer sees us sweating in our heavy jeans, while others stare in disbelief at someone foolish enough to wear jeans in 35°C heat. Let’s face it, if we have to explain, they will never understand. The alternative is too traumatic to contemplate. Horror of horrors, we abandon our jeans, frittering away precious days of wear.

When the colder months swing around we breathe a sigh of relief. These civilized temperatures not only allow us to comfortably wear our jeans, they also provide us with much more possibility when it comes to our outfit.

Let’s look at the first line of defence in the battle against the winter chill. Your winter jacket.

There are a plethora of winter jackets out there, which would both compliment your jeans and keep you snug and warm. But there are a few classics that we feel are the perfect companion throughout the winter months.

The N1

The N1 Deck Jacket was developed in the 1940s for the US Navy.

With its tightly woven cotton outer shell and alpaca lining it staved off even the harshest conditions the sea could throw at it. There are a number of companies making fantastic variations on the N1; Trophy Clothing, Pike Brother, and Spiewak to name just a few.

However, the Buzz Rickson’s version has to be the closest to the original we have seen. Available through Burg&Schild.

Naval Peacoat

Sticking with the Navy, we have the always classic peacoat.

The peacoat can trace its design as far back as the 1790s. Yet the “modern,” classic version is most commonly associated with the Navy. The heavy Melton wool outer, double breasted closure, wide lapels and high collar being perfect for keeping out the worst of the weather while at sea.

Like most classic military clothing, the peacoat found its way into the civilian life. You can find a great many different variations of good and bad quality.

For us, the US 740N Naval Pea Coat from Schott has to be one of the best. It ticks all the boxes: 32 oz. Melton outer, anchor-embossed buttons, and the classic military cut. Oh, and its water repellent, which naturally comes in handy. Available thought Burg&Schild.

Worker Jacket

It should come as no surprise to you that I am a huge fan of Eat Dust. Their clothing is classic and practical. The production quality is right up there with the best, and they are simply fucking cool.

Keith and Rob keep things simple, they find the best possible cut for a particular garments and stick to it. Every now and then they offer us variations.

For this winter they have taken their 637 Core Worker Jacket and, in collaboration with artist Nicholas Coleman, they have come up with the 637N. With a heavy wool, beautifully patterned outer, and red satin lining this jacket is super rare – only 83 were made. They’re all hand numbered and hand signed.

You’ll have to be quick if you want one. Available through Meadow.

Sheepskin Pilot Jacket

Going back to the military, for this jacket we will leave the sea and look to the sky.

During the Second World War, RAF bomber pilots had to spend long periods of time flying at very high altitudes. Their planes had no pressurized cabin or heating of any sort. Put simply it got cold up there, very cold.

To help them cope with freezing temperatures the pilots and crews of the planes were given jackets made from sheepskin wool. The natural insulating properties of the wool made for the perfect defence from the cold.

The RAF Sheepskin Flying Jacket from Alexander Leathers is probably as close as you can come to what they were wearing in the 1940s. Made from the best US-sourced sheepskin, the most authentic hardware from Japan, and made with the skill of a dedicated machinist, this jacket not only as authentic as possible, but also beautifully made. It will last a lifetime.

I was lucky enough to try this jacket on recently and believe me; I could go out in the Berlin winter with nothing under this but a T-shirt and be warm and toasty. Available through Alexander Leathers.

Images courtesy of named stores, aside from title image, which is vintage.

The post These 4 Winter Jackets Perfectly Match Your Raw Denim Jeans appeared first on Denimhunters.

Pike Brothers is a firm favourite of mine. Period.

The brand takes inspiration from both European and American workwear and focuses on making beautiful authentic clothes. In doing so they are eschewing the trends that seem to govern the denim industry in favour of simply producing what they like.

Most Pike Brothers jeans are made from a 11 oz. denim – a trifle light by selvedge standards. However, they did cause a bit of a stir with the ‘über’ heavy 23 oz. 1958 Roamer, and this is where the inspiration for the new 1948 Roamer Pant came from.

As Pike Brothers’ founder, Fabian Jedlitschka, says, “we had several people asking for a little bit lighter version and a wider fit.” Clearly I wasn’t alone in wanting them to do something in between the two, with a cut closer to the 1937 Roamers.

Let’s take a closer look.

Simply put, these jeans are a thing of beauty.

Fabricated from 19 oz. right hand twill raw selvedge denim they’re satisfyingly heavy. The indigo really is quite a deep, well, indigo. The contrasting blue and golden stitching on the selvedge, replicated again on the coin pocket, is a great touch.

With their regular mill in Turkey only capable of working with denim up to 16 oz., Pike Brothers had to turn elsewhere. For Fabian, only Kurabo Mill in Japan could deliver the quality needed.

The 1948 Roamer has lost the cinch and brace buttons of their 1937 cousin.

Fabian argues that by 1948 manufacturers had ditched these in favour of belt loops. “We looked at our archive and also studied pictures from the 40s and decided not to outfit the 1948 with suspender buttons and a cinch. These features are hardly found during that era.”

By way of comparison the 501 lost its brace buttons in 1937, younger workmen preferring to sport a belt.

In cut the 48s retain an authentic “anti fit” feel, with a decent rise and a wide, un-tapered leg; again entirely accurate for the era. All the other details you expect to see from Pike Brothers are present and correct: The honey yellow stitching, the heavy bar tacked belt loops, seam ends and pockets. Also present is the watch chain D ring; as men stopped wearing waistcoats somewhere else was need to stow your pocket watch.

The lock stitched hem is also still there.

In an earlier interview with Denimhunters, Fabian argued that European work wear manufacturers would not have had access to Union Special sewing machines capable of chain stitching.

Maybe an issue for some people, but I don’t see a problem.

My one quibble is that it would have been nice to see Pike Brothers dispense with the light zinc finish buttons and rivets in favour of something worthy of such heavy denim. In all other respects they’ve gone the extra mile with these jeans. A minor point though. The quality of this Kubaro denim is such that it’s not deal breaker.

Pike Brothers recommend that you break in the jeans from dry.

It’s been covered before in our How To Rinse Your Jeans-guide, but I always give my denim a pre-wear soak. Not only will a soak make your denim last longer, it will prevent them from shrinking after the first wash. There’s not much point investing months of your time breaking in such beautiful jeans only to have them not fit you afterwards. That said, post-soak the jeans had lost only an inch off the leg and nothing off the waist.

Thank Christ it’s winter though – these baby’s are heavy!

I’m genuinely excited at the prospect of breaking in my 1948s over the next few months. At 19 oz. this will take some work, (just buttoning the fly is a challenge), but that’s why we love raw denim, right?

Pike Brothers have surpassed themselves here. Clearly a lot of hard work went in to developing the 1948 Roamer Pant, and the end results are impressive in almost every way. Tempted? You should be.

Available direct from Pike Brothers in two inseam lengths, 34” and 36”, you can order them here.

The post Raw Denim Review: Pike Brothers 19 Oz. 1948 Roamer Pant appeared first on Denimhunters.